Disclaimer: The material contained

Disclaimer: The material contained herein is merely for informational purpose and is not to be carried out unless written permission from local law enforcement is gained. The author takes NO responsibility for what one does with this information. Before even reading the procedure below, check with your local/state/national government to ensure that the law is not being broken.

Overview

Due to the difficulty in some area’s to acquire rp, SWIM went in search of alternate methods for Go-Go. (Well, and to try something new). A post on Rhodium’s site done by Pebble (Reduction of Ephedrine to Methamphetamine Using Hypophosphorus Acid) with a few references on the hive where all that was found. After several very successful reaction and amazed at the quality of end product it was determined that more info was needed out there. Pebbles method had many concerns regarding safety that were bothersome. (Smelling contents in between stages of the reaction. Reaction being carried out in an open vessel, ect…). That brings us to this point.

Materials:

7 g of P-fed or Eph…CLEAN (E-Gull method, or The Cure on cleaning out the Gaak).
11 ml Con. Hypophosphorus Acid (Conc. Described later)
14 g I2 crystals (If tint is used, make sure that it is absolutely dry!)
1 : 1.25 (E : Hypo) & 1 : 1.5 (Hypo : I)
250 ml Flat Bottom Flask (or any reaction vessel)
200 ml beaker
PYREX Evap Dish
Reflux Condenser or 3 ft Surgical Tubing
Heat source (Hot Plate or electric eye)
d-H2O (Don’t risk loosing quality over 79 cents / gal)
Sodium Hydroxide
Ice (For Reflux Condenser Cooling and basifying)
Sep Funnel (500 ml glass works great)
Toluene, Naphtha or Non-Polar solvent of choice (Xylene has been the choice lately due to Gaak's solubility in Toluene)
HCl (30% LG), or Muratic Acid if in a pinch
6- Pack of beer of choice
Brief Notes:

Don’t be sloppy
The end result is directly proportional to the effort applied!
Dry reagents are a necessity. Water in any of the Hypo/I/E will hinder the reaction.
Take pride in your work, and don’t be in a hurry.
In the Beginning



The E and Hypo are placed into the reaction flask (250ml flat bottom or larger). Heat is genteelly applied to the flask. What your are looking for is the E mixing with the Hypo. Not all the E will mix, but get as much as possible. Place sealed flask in the freezer for 20- 30 min. (Hypo loves to absorb moisture) Set up the reflux condenser with ice water circulating through it. If no reflux is available connect tubing to a stopper of the appropriate size to fit the reaction flask. (Any which way, drink a beer).

Remove the flask and place in a ice bath, acetone and ice works well fine. On rxn above 10g one may concider using Dry Ice and acetone for a ice bath.. (Keeping the contents cold will help buy you some time while connecting up the reflux condenser or tubing and will help keep the reaction under control). Attach tubing to the end of the reflux condenser, or flask if not using a condenser, and run it to your vapor containment unit (VCU, p/p unit, a bottle with the tube stuck inside and a wet paper towel to seal off the opening. The beer bottle from that beer you just drank could work). The I is added to the flask and spread over hypo/E as best as possible while the contents are still frozen. Once the I hits the Hypo/E mix and the flask and contents slowly warm, it will start to liquefy. (Sometimes one side of the flask is still frozen while the other is bubbling away). Bubbling will start to occur and will get more vigorous. Better yields and fewer side products are obtainable by allowing the reaction to liquefy, but not bubble out of control at first. (DO NOT smell the fumes…They will raise hell with your nose and lungs). The flask may have white smoke inside. Once liquefied, gently swirl the flask and mix the contents as best as possible. The color should go from dark red/purple to a light reddish-yellow. If the color didn’t change or the I2 is still liquid, gently swirling the reaction flask and place onto a WARM heat source. (Try using the palm of your hand first then a hot plate set on warm). If the contents of the flask have not gone to a orange-ish/reddish color after applying heat, then add 1 - 2ml of Hypo and mix gently. If your Hypo has been concentrated, the reaction should have started without the addition of any heat. If the hypo was not concentrated heat will have to be applied to boil off the excess water.

Apply low-heat to the reaction flask until it starts to bubbling at a good hard steady rate. Note: DO NOT heat contents above 180° - 200° C or yields can suffer. Once a steady bubbling begins, look for white crystals (HI) in the tubing or in the glass tubing connector in the stopper. If a fog is forming in the vessel, try to keep it going for a few minuets. The contents should continue to bubble by itself for some time even when removed from the heat. (30 sec up to 4 min, depending on the vessels wall thickness and the Hypo/I amount). Look at the color of the reaction. If you notice a reddish color starting to appear, give the contents a few swirls and then place back on the heat. If the reddish color forms again, 1-2 ml Hypo should be added down the condenser/tubing and placed back on the heat. The color should lighten back up to a light gold/pale yellow color. Remove from heat.


After the boiling has subsided, mix/swirl the contents and then heat was again applied to the bottom of the flask. Notice the length in time decreases that it will boil by itself. Pay attention to the size of the bubbles in the solution while the contents are being heated. As the reaction goes on the size of the bubbles get larger. Note: Keep the contents liquefied. To much mixing and letting the contents cool will cause it to solidify and is a pain to get it going again.





White smoke should have been noticed faintly flowing into the flask. Large amounts of 'snow' should be pressent on the glass walls. Add a few mls of dH2O down the tubing or reflux condencer to wash the 'snow' down. Return to the heat source. After 20 - 30 min of the smoke flowing into the reaction vessel, disconnect the tubing at the opposite end of the flask and add a few more ml (1 to 2 ml MAX) of dH2O to assist in washing down the new 'snow'. Work the water down into the flask. You should start seeing more white smoke flowing into the vessel. Apply heat until the fog flow rate into the flask is clearly obvious and fairly constant. ( Usually let this run for another 10-15 min…Overkill? Don’t know, but one wants to make sure everything has been converted) Note: Check the temp of the reaction. Remember to not go above 180° C or yields can suffer. When the size of the bubbles is dramaticly larger than they originally where, the reaction is done.

If unsure the reaction went, apply heat once again and notice if there is a change in bubble size and length of time it bubbles when removed. The color of the solution should now be a pale yellow to almost a clear color. If the bubbling dies off fairly quickly, its probably done.

Un-stopper the flask. Now all the harsh nasty vapors should be undetectable. If experience has been done with the rp/I method you should be able to smell “That Smell”, if not experienced, there should be a sweat rotten-egg smell, but nothing that irritates your nose. If “The Smell” is undetectable, your not done. Place contents back onto the heat source and bring to a slow boil for 10 - 15 minutes (almost like refluxing), and then check again.

Phase One completed.

A light at the end of the tunnel

Continue washing down the walls of the flask, condenser/tubing with dH2O. Once satisfied, prepare 200 to 400 ml of your NP (Toluene, Naphtha, Xylene ect.) and place post-reaction vessel in a ice bath. (Whooooaaaa there little horsy!!! You didn’t filter it…No need to since you are not using rp. Put in CLEAN precursors, you get clean post reaction solution. A perk of this method over the rp’s, you get the goods without the crud). While contents are chilling, now is a great time for another beer and to clean up the equipment from phase one.

With the NP and near Go-Go cooled, add your sodium hydroxide (aqueous solution or direct) in small amounts to the flask. NOTE: A solution is preferred over directly adding lye to contents due to less gaak noticed in the pull process and less exothermic reaction. What one should be looking for is ’snow’ or the solution turning white to form and not clear up after several minutesLet the contents settle down again and mix/swirl flask. If the white went away, your not there, so add a bit more base. This process will keep one from adding more lye than needed and causing ‘Lye Lock’ from occurring. Keep adding your lye in small portions and swirling until the solution is ph 12.5+. If desired, pour in some salt to help push all the Go-Go up into the NP, but use NON-IONIZED!.

Decant the top layer into your sep funnel. Don’t worry if some of the bottom layer gets in, you want to get all of your NP though. Shake, swirl what ever for several minutes. Let settle then decant the bottom layer off and SAVE. Swirl the funnel to wash the side wall down. While the contents settle, drink a beer while you heat up 50 ml of dH2O in the microwave (for about 45 sec, or until it boils vigoursly). Drain off the bottom layer again if any. Pour in the hot dH2O into the sep. Swirl the sep around for a few seconds before placing the top on LOOSELY. (Vapors are produced when something is heated). Wash the NP layer well to rid it of any Gaak, contaminants and excess sodium ions. While contents are settling, finish the remainder of the open beer.

Decant the bottom layer and add 50 - 100 ml of chilled dH2O. (About 1/2 the amount of NP). Swirl/mix/shake the contents. Let settle and then decant. Do this a few more times with hot then cold dH2O. After the final wash, let the sep settle

Hasil (Melayu) 1:

Penafian: Segala bahan yang terkandung di sini adalah semata-mata untuk tujuan maklumat dan bukan untuk dilaksanakan melainkan bertulis kebenaran daripada penguatkuasaan undang-undang tempatan diperolehi. Penulis mengambil masa tidak akan bertanggungjawab terhadap apa yang seseorang lakukan dengan maklumat ini. Sebelum walaupun membaca prosedur di bawah, sila tanya wakil kerajaan tempatan/negeri/negara anda untuk memastikan bahawa undang-undang tidak menjadi rosak.Gambaran keseluruhanBiasa digunakan kerana sukarnya di beberapa kawasan untuk memperolehi Mata Ganjaran, BERENANG pergi mencari kaedah alternatif untuk pergi-pergi. (Well, dan mencuba sesuatu yang baru). Jawatan di lokasi Rhodium yang dilakukan oleh kerikil (pengurangan alkaloid Methamphetamine menggunakan asid Hypophosphorus) dengan beberapa rujukan pada sarang di mana semua yang telah ditemui. Selepas beberapa reaksi yang sangat berjaya dan kagum pada kualiti produk akhir yang telah ditentukan bahawa maklumat lanjut diperlukan sana. Kaedah Pebbles telah banyak kebimbangan mengenai keselamatan yang mengganggu. (Kandungan antara peringkat reaksi berbau. Reaksi giat dijalankan di kapal terbuka, ect...). Yang membawa kita ke titik ini.Bahan-bahan:7 g P-fed atau Eph.... BERSIHKAN (kaedah E-Gull atau Cure pada kering keluar Gaak tersebut).11 ml Con. Hypophosphorus asid (Conc. Described kemudian)14 g I2 Kristal (jika tint digunakan, pastikan ianya benar-benar kering!)1: 1.25 (E: Hypo) & 1: 1.5 (Hypo: saya)250 ml Flat bawah Flask (atau mana-mana vesel reaksi)bikar 200 mlPYREX Evap hidanganCondenser refluks atau tiub pembedahan ka 3Sumber haba (panas atau mata elektrik)d-H2O (Jangan risiko kehilangan kualiti ke atas 79 sen/gal)Natrium HidroksidaAis (bagi refluks Condenser penyejukan dan basifying)Corong Sep (500 ml kerja besar kaca)Toluene, pelarut naphtha Fels atau bebas-Polar pilihan (Xylene juga telah menjadi pilihan akhir-akhir ini oleh kerana keterlarutan Gaak di dalam Toluene)HCl (30% LG), atau Muratic asid jika dalam secubit6 - pack bir pilihanNota-nota ringkas:Jangan menjadi cerobohKeputusan akhir adalah berkadar terus dengan usaha yang digunakan! Reagen kering merupakan satu keperluan. Air dalam mana-mana Hypo/saya/E akan menghalang tindak balas.Sentiasa berazam untuk kerja anda, dan tidak akan tergesa-gesa.Pada mulanyaE dan Hypo dimasukkan ke dalam flask tindak balas (bawah flat 250ml atau lebih besar). Haba genteelly digunakan dalam flask. Apakah yang anda cari adalah E yang mencampurkan dengan Hypo itu. Tidak semua E akan bercampur, tetapi mendapat seberapa banyak yang mungkin. Tempat flask yang dimeteraikan di dalam penyejuk beku untuk 20 - 30 min. (Hypo suka untuk menyerap lembapan) Sediakan condenser refluks dengan air ais yang beredar melaluinya. Jika refluks tiada terdapat sambungkan tiub penyumbat dengan saiz yang sesuai untuk dimuatkan dalam flask tindak balas. (Apa-apa yang cara, minum bir). Keluarkan flask tersebut dan letakkan dalam kerja mandian, acetone dan ais ais yang baik baik. Pada rxn di atas 10g satu boleh concider menggunakan ais kering dan acetone untuk mandi ais... (Menjaga kandungan sejuk akan membantu membeli sedikit masa semasa menyambung sehingga condenser refluks atau tiub dan akan membantu mengekalkan tindak balas terkawal). Melampirkan tiub akhir condenser refluks atau flask jika tidak menggunakan condenser yang, dan berlari untuk unit batasan anda wap (VCU, p/p unit, sebotol terperangkap di dalam tiub dengan tuala basah kertas untuk mengelak dari pembukaan. Botol bir dari bir bahawa anda hanya minum boleh bekerja). Saya dimasukkan ke dalam flask dan tersebar hypo/E sebagai terbaik yang mungkin semasa kandungan masih beku. Sebaik sahaja saya terkena campuran Hypo/E dan flask dan kandungan yang suam perlahan-lahan, ia akan mula liquefy. (Kadang-kadang sebelah flask yang masih terbeku manakala yang lain adalah menggelegak jauhnya). Menggelegak akan mula berlaku dan akan mendapat lebih bersungguh-sungguh. Hasil yang lebih baik dan sedikit sahaja produk sampingan yang boleh diperolehi dengan membenarkan tindak balas untuk liquefy, tetapi tidak gelembung luar kawalan pada mulanya. (Bau asap itu... Mereka akan meningkatkan neraka dengan hidung dan paru-paru). Flask ini mungkin mempunyai asap putih di dalam. Apabila cecair, perlahan-lahan swirl flask tersebut dan campuran kandungan sebagai terbaik yang mungkin. Warna harus pergi dari merah/ungu gelap kepada cahaya kemerahan berwarna kuning. Jika warna tidak menukar atau I2 yang masih cecair, perlahan-lahan berpusar flask reaksi dan tempat ke sumber haba yang panas. (Cuba menggunakan kelapa tangan anda terlebih dahulu kemudian menetapkan plat panas suam). Jika kandungan flask tersebut telah tidak pergi ke warna orange-ish/kemerahan selepas menggunakan haba, kemudian Tambah 1-2 ml Hypo dan gaulkan perlahan-lahan. Jika anda Hypo telah pekat, tindak balas sepatutnya telah mula tanpa penambahan haba apa-apa. Jika hypo yang tidak pekat haba perlu digunakan hingga mendidih off air berlebihan.Menggunakan haba rendah flask reaksi sehingga ia mula menggelegak pada kadar tetap keras baik. Nota: Panaskan kandungan melebihi 180° - 200° C atau hasil boleh menderita. Setelah menggelegak mantap bermula, mencari putih Kristal (HI didapati) dalam tiub atau Penyambung tiub kaca di dalam penyumbat. Jika kabus membentuk di kapal, cuba untuk memastikan ia berterusan untuk beberapa minuets. Kandungan mesti terus Bubble kewangan dengan sendirinya untuk beberapa masa walaupun ketika dikeluarkan dari haba. (30 sec sehingga 4 min, bergantung kepada kapal-kapal dinding ketebalan dan dalam Hypo / saya jumlah). Lihatlah warna tindak balas. Jika anda perhatikan warna kemerahan mula hadir, memberi kandungan berputaran di sedikit dan kemudian meletakkan semula haba. Jika warna kemerahan membentuk lagi, 1-2 ml Hypo perlu ditambah nilainya condenser/tiub dan diletakkan kembali haba. Warna perlu mencerahkan kembali sehingga warna kuning emas/pale yang ringan. Buang dari api. Selepas mendidih yang telah reda, campuran/swirl kandungan dan kemudian haba lagi diaplikasikan ke bawah dalam flask. Perhatikan panjang dalam penurunan masa yang ia akan rebus dengan sendirinya. Beri perhatian kepada saiz buih-buih di dalam penyelesaian sementara kandungan akan dipanaskan. Sebagai tindak balas yang berlaku di saiz buih-buih tersebut mendapat lebih besar. Nota: Pastikan kandungan cecair. Untuk banyak mencampurkan dan membolehkan kandungan menjadi sejuk akan menyebabkan ia memantapkan dan sakit untuk mendapatkannya akan lagi. White smoke should have been noticed faintly flowing into the flask. Large amounts of 'snow' should be pressent on the glass walls. Add a few mls of dH2O down the tubing or reflux condencer to wash the 'snow' down. Return to the heat source. After 20 - 30 min of the smoke flowing into the reaction vessel, disconnect the tubing at the opposite end of the flask and add a few more ml (1 to 2 ml MAX) of dH2O to assist in washing down the new 'snow'. Work the water down into the flask. You should start seeing more white smoke flowing into the vessel. Apply heat until the fog flow rate into the flask is clearly obvious and fairly constant. ( Usually let this run for another 10-15 min…Overkill? Don’t know, but one wants to make sure everything has been converted) Note: Check the temp of the reaction. Remember to not go above 180° C or yields can suffer. When the size of the bubbles is dramaticly larger than they originally where, the reaction is done.If unsure the reaction went, apply heat once again and notice if there is a change in bubble size and length of time it bubbles when removed. The color of the solution should now be a pale yellow to almost a clear color. If the bubbling dies off fairly quickly, its probably done.Un-stopper the flask. Now all the harsh nasty vapors should be undetectable. If experience has been done with the rp/I method you should be able to smell “That Smell”, if not experienced, there should be a sweat rotten-egg smell, but nothing that irritates your nose. If “The Smell” is undetectable, your not done. Place contents back onto the heat source and bring to a slow boil for 10 - 15 minutes (almost like refluxing), and then check again.Phase One completed.A light at the end of the tunnelContinue washing down the walls of the flask, condenser/tubing with dH2O. Once satisfied, prepare 200 to 400 ml of your NP (Toluene, Naphtha, Xylene ect.) and place post-reaction vessel in a ice bath. (Whooooaaaa there little horsy!!! You didn’t filter it…No need to since you are not using rp. Put in CLEAN precursors, you get clean post reaction solution. A perk of this method over the rp’s, you get the goods without the crud). While contents are chilling, now is a great time for another beer and to clean up the equipment from phase one. With the NP and near Go-Go cooled, add your sodium hydroxide (aqueous solution or direct) in small amounts to the flask. NOTE: A solution is preferred over directly adding lye to contents due to less gaak noticed in the pull process and less exothermic reaction. What one should be looking for is ’snow’ or the solution turning white to form and not clear up after several minutesLet the contents settle down again and mix/swirl flask. If the white went away, your not there, so add a bit more base. This process will keep one from adding more lye than needed and causing ‘Lye Lock’ from occurring. Keep adding your lye in small portions and swirling until the solution is ph 12.5+. If desired, pour in some salt to help push all the Go-Go up into the NP, but use NON-IONIZED!.Decant the top layer into your sep funnel. Don’t worry if some of the bottom layer gets in, you want to get all of your NP though. Shake, swirl what ever for several minutes. Let settle then decant the bottom layer off and SAVE. Swirl the funnel to wash the side wall down. While the contents settle, drink a beer while you heat up 50 ml of dH2O in the microwave (for about 45 sec, or until it boils vigoursly). Drain off the bottom layer again if any. Pour in the hot dH2O into the sep. Swirl the sep around for a few seconds before placing the top on LOOSELY. (Vapors are produced when something is heated). Wash the NP layer well to rid it of any Gaak, contaminants and excess sodium ions. While contents are settling, finish the remainder of the open beer.Decant the bottom layer and add 50 - 100 ml of chilled dH2O. (About 1/2 the amount of NP). Swirl/mix/shake the contents. Let settle and then decant. Do this a few more times with hot then cold dH2O. After the final wash, let the sep settle