- Teks
- Sejarah
0 TIPS FOR SHOOTING TIME-LAPSEPoste
0 TIPS FOR SHOOTING TIME-LAPSE
Posted at 14:17h in Tutorials by E. Pacheco 129 Comments Share
During the past three years, I have thoroughly researched and practiced the technique of time-lapse photography. The knowledge gained has enabled me to create the great images that would otherwise have been impossible. Many people who watch my videos are wondering if they too would be able to make such images, and the answer is yes. Thanks to the modern technology and its affordable price, almost everyone has access to a digital SLR, and it does not take much more than that to take high quality time-lapses.
Whether you’re new to the technique of time-lapse or have experience, these tips will be very helpful when planning and implementing your time lapses.
I hope that you enjoy them and put them to practice.
1 .- Plan, plan, plan … As the Chinese proverb says, if I had ten hours to chop down a tree, I would use seven in sharpening the ax. If we are going to make a “time-lapse” of a sunset, it makes no sense to do 30 miles by car loaded with our gear to get to the place chosen only two minutes before sunset. It is therefore very important to check both the sunsets and sunrises, and their orientation in respect to our subject and other possible elements, moon, tides, etc., which may come into play.
A great tool for this task is “The Photographer’s Ephemeris”. We must get to know its interface, observing the sun and moon and their trajectory, planning ahead our location … and only then to begin to prepare the gear.
2 .- Don´t forget anything. When you go shooting time-lapse, you can spend several hours standing on a rock in the middle of nowhere, so you have to be well prepared. I wouldn´t want to sound like your mom, but it is worth reminding you that you should take with you enough of water and food. If it’s winter, spare socks, a warm coat, gloves … And if it’s summer, more water, a hat and sunscreen. A fully charged cell phone and something to read is a must. Oh and do not forget the camera and tripod.
3 .- Tripod, our best friend. Stop dreaming about expensive lightweight carbon tripod. What we really need is that old heavy tripod that nobody wants to carry. Keep in mind that your camera will remain in the same position perhaps for an hour or two. The slightest shake or rolling caused by the wind during the shots, will end up in a shaken take. If your tripod is not sturdy enough, you can hang your camera bag on it, or use stones to give it greater stability and rigidity. This is essential in long exposures.
4.- Framing is key. Most of the times we arrive to the locations very excited, with so much energy that we are not able to visualize the scene, trying to find the right framing. Leave the backpack and tripod and take a walk around the area, imagine the shot, take a look at the scene, try to find the best location and composition.
We must act as if we were going to take a single shot, as if we had brought a single roll of film in which, unfortunately, we have only one exposition. The “time-lapse” technique is essentially photography, and we should think of it as such. If we are thinking only of how the final video will look, we’ll skip the details that make the difference between a good shot and an epic image.
5 .- Basic camera settings. Some people will tell you that auto/priority mode and Jpg files are the best settings to make a “time-lapse”. Just as no one uses those settings when taking some quality photographs, to achieve professional results in time lapse we will use manual exposure and RAW files.
Both manual mode and RAW files will give us greater control over our camera and during the postproduction. We must remember that the camera is shooting for a long time, so if we use any automatism, the camera will try to correct every change of light and the color temperature. So if you shot it in JPEG, there will be no turning back.
6 .- Live View. If your SLR has a good battery that lasts long , I would recommend you to use the Live View. By using this feature, the mirror will always stay up and not hit when the shutter fires, thereby avoiding possible camera shake. Also, the Live View allows us to visualize our shot in real time. If you also activate the histogram, you will also have the exposure under control.
7 .- Focus accurately. It is very important to select the manual mode in both the camera and lens, if applicable. (If we have an SLR with Live View, we can also focus with the magnifying loup at the desired point.) In most of my shots I usually focus to infinity while I use wide angle lenses. In other cases, however, having elements of interest in the first or middle term, we must ensure that this is where the focus will be. Knowing the hyperfocal of our lens is always important, since many of our shots are of landscape and is in this case we want the longest depth of field.
8 .- Avoid “flicker”. No, I`m not talking about the popular photography website. By “flicker” is known as the unwanted effect that occurs in the “time-lapse” due to slight differences in exposure between shots. This difference is that the diaphragm of autofocus lenses remains fully open until the shutter closes it, not always with the same size. Incredibly, there are tiny variations between takes.
We have two solutions to avoid this problem. First, using manual lenses, my favorite solution, to ensure that the diaphragm is always kept fixed in the same position. The second and more accessible is to partially disconnect the lens from the camera to cut the communication between them, selecting the desired aperture ourselves using the depth of field button.
9 .- Choose the right lapse. This is perhaps the most important point when dealing with a “time-lapse”. The interval between shots is what will determine the speed of our final video. The longer the interval, the quicker will be the movement of the elements of our shot, and vice versa. But we must adapt the interval to the real movement of our scenery.
Confused? Here are a few suggestions of lapses depending on the scene.
Clouds moving very slowly, interval of 10 seconds.
Clouds moving normally: interval of 5 seconds.
Clouds moving very fast: interval of 3 seconds.
People walking down the street: interval of 2 seconds.
Path of the sun on a clear day, nterval of 30 seconds.
Night landscapes, stars, moon, etc.: nterval of 20 to 30 seconds.
10.- Knowing how long your “time-lapse” takes. This is the second major variable that we have to calculate. In many cases we know it, as in a football game or a sunset. We’ll set an interval and clip duration that gives us an adequate number of frames. On the contrary, if we are shooting a scene without beginning or an end, like a flowing of a river, the exposure and interval will determine the length of the shot.
Some quick math: Knowing that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the United States it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have to multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the “time-lapse”.
It can happen that you do not know the duration of the event or you want to capture a long scene, like a thunderstorm formation. In these cases, the interval is the premium: choose the right one for the scene and select “infinity” or “zero” in the number of frames of your remote. Now you just have to be patient.
Posted at 14:17h in Tutorials by E. Pacheco 129 Comments Share
During the past three years, I have thoroughly researched and practiced the technique of time-lapse photography. The knowledge gained has enabled me to create the great images that would otherwise have been impossible. Many people who watch my videos are wondering if they too would be able to make such images, and the answer is yes. Thanks to the modern technology and its affordable price, almost everyone has access to a digital SLR, and it does not take much more than that to take high quality time-lapses.
Whether you’re new to the technique of time-lapse or have experience, these tips will be very helpful when planning and implementing your time lapses.
I hope that you enjoy them and put them to practice.
1 .- Plan, plan, plan … As the Chinese proverb says, if I had ten hours to chop down a tree, I would use seven in sharpening the ax. If we are going to make a “time-lapse” of a sunset, it makes no sense to do 30 miles by car loaded with our gear to get to the place chosen only two minutes before sunset. It is therefore very important to check both the sunsets and sunrises, and their orientation in respect to our subject and other possible elements, moon, tides, etc., which may come into play.
A great tool for this task is “The Photographer’s Ephemeris”. We must get to know its interface, observing the sun and moon and their trajectory, planning ahead our location … and only then to begin to prepare the gear.
2 .- Don´t forget anything. When you go shooting time-lapse, you can spend several hours standing on a rock in the middle of nowhere, so you have to be well prepared. I wouldn´t want to sound like your mom, but it is worth reminding you that you should take with you enough of water and food. If it’s winter, spare socks, a warm coat, gloves … And if it’s summer, more water, a hat and sunscreen. A fully charged cell phone and something to read is a must. Oh and do not forget the camera and tripod.
3 .- Tripod, our best friend. Stop dreaming about expensive lightweight carbon tripod. What we really need is that old heavy tripod that nobody wants to carry. Keep in mind that your camera will remain in the same position perhaps for an hour or two. The slightest shake or rolling caused by the wind during the shots, will end up in a shaken take. If your tripod is not sturdy enough, you can hang your camera bag on it, or use stones to give it greater stability and rigidity. This is essential in long exposures.
4.- Framing is key. Most of the times we arrive to the locations very excited, with so much energy that we are not able to visualize the scene, trying to find the right framing. Leave the backpack and tripod and take a walk around the area, imagine the shot, take a look at the scene, try to find the best location and composition.
We must act as if we were going to take a single shot, as if we had brought a single roll of film in which, unfortunately, we have only one exposition. The “time-lapse” technique is essentially photography, and we should think of it as such. If we are thinking only of how the final video will look, we’ll skip the details that make the difference between a good shot and an epic image.
5 .- Basic camera settings. Some people will tell you that auto/priority mode and Jpg files are the best settings to make a “time-lapse”. Just as no one uses those settings when taking some quality photographs, to achieve professional results in time lapse we will use manual exposure and RAW files.
Both manual mode and RAW files will give us greater control over our camera and during the postproduction. We must remember that the camera is shooting for a long time, so if we use any automatism, the camera will try to correct every change of light and the color temperature. So if you shot it in JPEG, there will be no turning back.
6 .- Live View. If your SLR has a good battery that lasts long , I would recommend you to use the Live View. By using this feature, the mirror will always stay up and not hit when the shutter fires, thereby avoiding possible camera shake. Also, the Live View allows us to visualize our shot in real time. If you also activate the histogram, you will also have the exposure under control.
7 .- Focus accurately. It is very important to select the manual mode in both the camera and lens, if applicable. (If we have an SLR with Live View, we can also focus with the magnifying loup at the desired point.) In most of my shots I usually focus to infinity while I use wide angle lenses. In other cases, however, having elements of interest in the first or middle term, we must ensure that this is where the focus will be. Knowing the hyperfocal of our lens is always important, since many of our shots are of landscape and is in this case we want the longest depth of field.
8 .- Avoid “flicker”. No, I`m not talking about the popular photography website. By “flicker” is known as the unwanted effect that occurs in the “time-lapse” due to slight differences in exposure between shots. This difference is that the diaphragm of autofocus lenses remains fully open until the shutter closes it, not always with the same size. Incredibly, there are tiny variations between takes.
We have two solutions to avoid this problem. First, using manual lenses, my favorite solution, to ensure that the diaphragm is always kept fixed in the same position. The second and more accessible is to partially disconnect the lens from the camera to cut the communication between them, selecting the desired aperture ourselves using the depth of field button.
9 .- Choose the right lapse. This is perhaps the most important point when dealing with a “time-lapse”. The interval between shots is what will determine the speed of our final video. The longer the interval, the quicker will be the movement of the elements of our shot, and vice versa. But we must adapt the interval to the real movement of our scenery.
Confused? Here are a few suggestions of lapses depending on the scene.
Clouds moving very slowly, interval of 10 seconds.
Clouds moving normally: interval of 5 seconds.
Clouds moving very fast: interval of 3 seconds.
People walking down the street: interval of 2 seconds.
Path of the sun on a clear day, nterval of 30 seconds.
Night landscapes, stars, moon, etc.: nterval of 20 to 30 seconds.
10.- Knowing how long your “time-lapse” takes. This is the second major variable that we have to calculate. In many cases we know it, as in a football game or a sunset. We’ll set an interval and clip duration that gives us an adequate number of frames. On the contrary, if we are shooting a scene without beginning or an end, like a flowing of a river, the exposure and interval will determine the length of the shot.
Some quick math: Knowing that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the United States it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have to multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the “time-lapse”.
It can happen that you do not know the duration of the event or you want to capture a long scene, like a thunderstorm formation. In these cases, the interval is the premium: choose the right one for the scene and select “infinity” or “zero” in the number of frames of your remote. Now you just have to be patient.
0/5000
0 TIPS FOR SHOOTING TIME-LAPSEPosted at 14:17h in Tutorials by E. Pacheco 129 Comments ShareDuring the past three years, I have thoroughly researched and practiced the technique of time-lapse photography. The knowledge gained has enabled me to create the great images that would otherwise have been impossible. Many people who watch my videos are wondering if they too would be able to make such images, and the answer is yes. Thanks to the modern technology and its affordable price, almost everyone has access to a digital SLR, and it does not take much more than that to take high quality time-lapses.Whether you’re new to the technique of time-lapse or have experience, these tips will be very helpful when planning and implementing your time lapses.I hope that you enjoy them and put them to practice.1 .- Plan, plan, plan … As the Chinese proverb says, if I had ten hours to chop down a tree, I would use seven in sharpening the ax. If we are going to make a “time-lapse” of a sunset, it makes no sense to do 30 miles by car loaded with our gear to get to the place chosen only two minutes before sunset. It is therefore very important to check both the sunsets and sunrises, and their orientation in respect to our subject and other possible elements, moon, tides, etc., which may come into play.A great tool for this task is “The Photographer’s Ephemeris”. We must get to know its interface, observing the sun and moon and their trajectory, planning ahead our location … and only then to begin to prepare the gear.
2 .- Don´t forget anything. When you go shooting time-lapse, you can spend several hours standing on a rock in the middle of nowhere, so you have to be well prepared. I wouldn´t want to sound like your mom, but it is worth reminding you that you should take with you enough of water and food. If it’s winter, spare socks, a warm coat, gloves … And if it’s summer, more water, a hat and sunscreen. A fully charged cell phone and something to read is a must. Oh and do not forget the camera and tripod.
3 .- Tripod, our best friend. Stop dreaming about expensive lightweight carbon tripod. What we really need is that old heavy tripod that nobody wants to carry. Keep in mind that your camera will remain in the same position perhaps for an hour or two. The slightest shake or rolling caused by the wind during the shots, will end up in a shaken take. If your tripod is not sturdy enough, you can hang your camera bag on it, or use stones to give it greater stability and rigidity. This is essential in long exposures.
4.- Framing is key. Most of the times we arrive to the locations very excited, with so much energy that we are not able to visualize the scene, trying to find the right framing. Leave the backpack and tripod and take a walk around the area, imagine the shot, take a look at the scene, try to find the best location and composition.
We must act as if we were going to take a single shot, as if we had brought a single roll of film in which, unfortunately, we have only one exposition. The “time-lapse” technique is essentially photography, and we should think of it as such. If we are thinking only of how the final video will look, we’ll skip the details that make the difference between a good shot and an epic image.
5 .- Basic camera settings. Some people will tell you that auto/priority mode and Jpg files are the best settings to make a “time-lapse”. Just as no one uses those settings when taking some quality photographs, to achieve professional results in time lapse we will use manual exposure and RAW files.
Both manual mode and RAW files will give us greater control over our camera and during the postproduction. We must remember that the camera is shooting for a long time, so if we use any automatism, the camera will try to correct every change of light and the color temperature. So if you shot it in JPEG, there will be no turning back.
6 .- Live View. If your SLR has a good battery that lasts long , I would recommend you to use the Live View. By using this feature, the mirror will always stay up and not hit when the shutter fires, thereby avoiding possible camera shake. Also, the Live View allows us to visualize our shot in real time. If you also activate the histogram, you will also have the exposure under control.
7 .- Focus accurately. It is very important to select the manual mode in both the camera and lens, if applicable. (If we have an SLR with Live View, we can also focus with the magnifying loup at the desired point.) In most of my shots I usually focus to infinity while I use wide angle lenses. In other cases, however, having elements of interest in the first or middle term, we must ensure that this is where the focus will be. Knowing the hyperfocal of our lens is always important, since many of our shots are of landscape and is in this case we want the longest depth of field.
8 .- Avoid “flicker”. No, I`m not talking about the popular photography website. By “flicker” is known as the unwanted effect that occurs in the “time-lapse” due to slight differences in exposure between shots. This difference is that the diaphragm of autofocus lenses remains fully open until the shutter closes it, not always with the same size. Incredibly, there are tiny variations between takes.
We have two solutions to avoid this problem. First, using manual lenses, my favorite solution, to ensure that the diaphragm is always kept fixed in the same position. The second and more accessible is to partially disconnect the lens from the camera to cut the communication between them, selecting the desired aperture ourselves using the depth of field button.
9 .- Choose the right lapse. This is perhaps the most important point when dealing with a “time-lapse”. The interval between shots is what will determine the speed of our final video. The longer the interval, the quicker will be the movement of the elements of our shot, and vice versa. But we must adapt the interval to the real movement of our scenery.
Confused? Here are a few suggestions of lapses depending on the scene.
Clouds moving very slowly, interval of 10 seconds.
Clouds moving normally: interval of 5 seconds.
Clouds moving very fast: interval of 3 seconds.
People walking down the street: interval of 2 seconds.
Path of the sun on a clear day, nterval of 30 seconds.
Night landscapes, stars, moon, etc.: nterval of 20 to 30 seconds.
10.- Knowing how long your “time-lapse” takes. This is the second major variable that we have to calculate. In many cases we know it, as in a football game or a sunset. We’ll set an interval and clip duration that gives us an adequate number of frames. On the contrary, if we are shooting a scene without beginning or an end, like a flowing of a river, the exposure and interval will determine the length of the shot.
Some quick math: Knowing that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the United States it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have to multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the “time-lapse”.
It can happen that you do not know the duration of the event or you want to capture a long scene, like a thunderstorm formation. In these cases, the interval is the premium: choose the right one for the scene and select “infinity” or “zero” in the number of frames of your remote. Now you just have to be patient.
2 .- Don´t forget anything. When you go shooting time-lapse, you can spend several hours standing on a rock in the middle of nowhere, so you have to be well prepared. I wouldn´t want to sound like your mom, but it is worth reminding you that you should take with you enough of water and food. If it’s winter, spare socks, a warm coat, gloves … And if it’s summer, more water, a hat and sunscreen. A fully charged cell phone and something to read is a must. Oh and do not forget the camera and tripod.
3 .- Tripod, our best friend. Stop dreaming about expensive lightweight carbon tripod. What we really need is that old heavy tripod that nobody wants to carry. Keep in mind that your camera will remain in the same position perhaps for an hour or two. The slightest shake or rolling caused by the wind during the shots, will end up in a shaken take. If your tripod is not sturdy enough, you can hang your camera bag on it, or use stones to give it greater stability and rigidity. This is essential in long exposures.
4.- Framing is key. Most of the times we arrive to the locations very excited, with so much energy that we are not able to visualize the scene, trying to find the right framing. Leave the backpack and tripod and take a walk around the area, imagine the shot, take a look at the scene, try to find the best location and composition.
We must act as if we were going to take a single shot, as if we had brought a single roll of film in which, unfortunately, we have only one exposition. The “time-lapse” technique is essentially photography, and we should think of it as such. If we are thinking only of how the final video will look, we’ll skip the details that make the difference between a good shot and an epic image.
5 .- Basic camera settings. Some people will tell you that auto/priority mode and Jpg files are the best settings to make a “time-lapse”. Just as no one uses those settings when taking some quality photographs, to achieve professional results in time lapse we will use manual exposure and RAW files.
Both manual mode and RAW files will give us greater control over our camera and during the postproduction. We must remember that the camera is shooting for a long time, so if we use any automatism, the camera will try to correct every change of light and the color temperature. So if you shot it in JPEG, there will be no turning back.
6 .- Live View. If your SLR has a good battery that lasts long , I would recommend you to use the Live View. By using this feature, the mirror will always stay up and not hit when the shutter fires, thereby avoiding possible camera shake. Also, the Live View allows us to visualize our shot in real time. If you also activate the histogram, you will also have the exposure under control.
7 .- Focus accurately. It is very important to select the manual mode in both the camera and lens, if applicable. (If we have an SLR with Live View, we can also focus with the magnifying loup at the desired point.) In most of my shots I usually focus to infinity while I use wide angle lenses. In other cases, however, having elements of interest in the first or middle term, we must ensure that this is where the focus will be. Knowing the hyperfocal of our lens is always important, since many of our shots are of landscape and is in this case we want the longest depth of field.
8 .- Avoid “flicker”. No, I`m not talking about the popular photography website. By “flicker” is known as the unwanted effect that occurs in the “time-lapse” due to slight differences in exposure between shots. This difference is that the diaphragm of autofocus lenses remains fully open until the shutter closes it, not always with the same size. Incredibly, there are tiny variations between takes.
We have two solutions to avoid this problem. First, using manual lenses, my favorite solution, to ensure that the diaphragm is always kept fixed in the same position. The second and more accessible is to partially disconnect the lens from the camera to cut the communication between them, selecting the desired aperture ourselves using the depth of field button.
9 .- Choose the right lapse. This is perhaps the most important point when dealing with a “time-lapse”. The interval between shots is what will determine the speed of our final video. The longer the interval, the quicker will be the movement of the elements of our shot, and vice versa. But we must adapt the interval to the real movement of our scenery.
Confused? Here are a few suggestions of lapses depending on the scene.
Clouds moving very slowly, interval of 10 seconds.
Clouds moving normally: interval of 5 seconds.
Clouds moving very fast: interval of 3 seconds.
People walking down the street: interval of 2 seconds.
Path of the sun on a clear day, nterval of 30 seconds.
Night landscapes, stars, moon, etc.: nterval of 20 to 30 seconds.
10.- Knowing how long your “time-lapse” takes. This is the second major variable that we have to calculate. In many cases we know it, as in a football game or a sunset. We’ll set an interval and clip duration that gives us an adequate number of frames. On the contrary, if we are shooting a scene without beginning or an end, like a flowing of a river, the exposure and interval will determine the length of the shot.
Some quick math: Knowing that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the United States it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have to multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the “time-lapse”.
It can happen that you do not know the duration of the event or you want to capture a long scene, like a thunderstorm formation. In these cases, the interval is the premium: choose the right one for the scene and select “infinity” or “zero” in the number of frames of your remote. Now you just have to be patient.
Sedang diterjemahkan, harap tunggu..
0 TIPS UNTUK SHOOTING selang waktu
Posted at 14: 17 jam di Tutorial oleh E. Pacheco 129 Komentar Share
Selama tiga tahun terakhir, saya telah diteliti secara menyeluruh dan mempraktekkan teknik time-lapse fotografi. Pengetahuan yang diperoleh telah memungkinkan saya untuk membuat gambar besar yang dinyatakan tidak mungkin. Banyak orang yang menonton video saya bertanya-tanya apakah mereka juga akan mampu membuat gambar tersebut, dan jawabannya adalah ya. Berkat teknologi modern dan harga terjangkau, hampir semua orang memiliki akses ke SLR digital, dan tidak mengambil lebih dari itu untuk mengambil berkualitas tinggi waktu-penyimpangan.
Apakah Anda baru untuk teknik time-lapse atau pengalaman, tips ini akan sangat membantu ketika merencanakan dan melaksanakan penyimpangan waktu Anda.
Saya berharap bahwa Anda menikmati mereka dan menempatkan mereka untuk berlatih. 1 .- Rencana, rencana, rencana ... Sebagai pepatah Cina mengatakan, jika saya punya sepuluh jam untuk memotong bawah pohon, saya akan menggunakan tujuh mengasah kapak. Jika kita akan membuat "time-lapse" dari matahari terbenam, tidak masuk akal untuk melakukan 30 mil dengan mobil sarat dengan perlengkapan kami untuk sampai ke tempat yang dipilih hanya dua menit sebelum matahari terbenam. Oleh karena itu sangat penting untuk memeriksa kedua matahari terbit dan terbenam, dan orientasi mereka dalam kaitannya dengan subjek dan unsur-unsur lain yang mungkin, bulan, pasang surut, dll, yang mungkin ikut bermain. Sebuah alat yang hebat untuk tugas ini adalah "Ephemeris The Fotografer ". Kita harus mengenal interface-nya, mengamati matahari dan bulan dan lintasan mereka, perencanaan ke depan lokasi kami ... dan hanya kemudian mulai mempersiapkan gigi. 2 .- Do not lupa apa-apa. Ketika Anda pergi menembak selang waktu, Anda dapat menghabiskan beberapa jam berdiri di atas batu di tengah-tengah dari mana, sehingga Anda harus siap. Aku wouldn't ingin terdengar seperti ibumu, tetapi perlu mengingatkan Anda bahwa Anda harus mengambil dengan Anda cukup air dan makanan. Jika itu musim dingin, kaus kaki cadangan, mantel hangat, sarung tangan ... Dan jika musim panas, lebih banyak air, topi dan tabir surya. Sebuah ponsel terisi penuh dan sesuatu untuk dibaca adalah suatu keharusan. Oh dan jangan lupa kamera dan tripod. 3 .- Tripod, sahabat terbaik kita. Berhenti bermimpi tentang mahal tripod karbon ringan. Apa yang kita perlukan adalah bahwa tripod berat lama yang tak seorang pun ingin membawa. Perlu diingat bahwa kamera Anda akan tetap berada di posisi yang sama mungkin untuk satu atau dua jam. Goyang sedikit atau bergulir yang disebabkan oleh angin selama tembakan, akan berakhir di take terguncang. Jika tripod Anda tidak cukup kokoh, Anda dapat menggantung tas kamera Anda di atasnya, atau menggunakan batu untuk memberikan stabilitas dan kekakuan yang lebih besar. Hal ini penting dalam eksposur panjang. 4.-Framing adalah kunci. Sebagian besar waktu kami tiba ke lokasi sangat bersemangat, dengan begitu banyak energi yang kita tidak mampu memvisualisasikan adegan, mencoba untuk menemukan framing yang tepat. Biarkan ransel dan tripod dan berjalan-jalan di sekitar daerah itu, bayangkan tembakan, kita lihat di tempat kejadian, mencoba untuk menemukan lokasi terbaik dan komposisi. Kita harus bertindak seolah-olah kita akan mengambil satu tembakan, seolah-olah kita telah membawa gulungan tunggal film di mana, sayangnya, kami hanya memiliki satu penjelasan. The "time-lapse" teknik dasarnya fotografi, dan kita harus berpikir seperti itu. Jika kita hanya memikirkan bagaimana video akhir akan terlihat, kita akan melewatkan rincian yang membuat perbedaan antara tembakan yang baik dan gambar epik. pengaturan kamera 5 .- Dasar. Beberapa orang akan memberitahu Anda bahwa auto modus / prioritas dan file Jpg adalah pengaturan terbaik untuk membuat "time-lapse". Sama seperti tidak ada yang menggunakan pengaturan tersebut saat mengambil beberapa foto berkualitas, untuk mencapai hasil yang profesional dalam selang waktu kita akan menggunakan eksposur manual dan file RAW. Kedua mode manual dan file RAW akan memberi kita kontrol yang lebih besar kamera kami dan selama pascaproduksi tersebut. Kita harus ingat bahwa kamera syuting untuk waktu yang lama, jadi jika kita menggunakan otomatisme saja, kamera akan mencoba untuk memperbaiki setiap perubahan cahaya dan suhu warna. Jadi jika Anda menembak di JPEG, tidak akan ada jalan kembali. 6 .- Live View. Jika SLR Anda memiliki baterai yang baik yang berlangsung lama, saya akan merekomendasikan Anda untuk menggunakan Live View. Dengan menggunakan fitur ini, cermin akan selalu tetap up dan tidak memukul saat kebakaran rana, sehingga menghindari kemungkinan guncangan kamera. Juga, Live View memungkinkan kita untuk memvisualisasikan ditembak kami secara real time. Jika anda juga mengaktifkan histogram, Anda juga akan memiliki eksposur di bawah kontrol. 7 .- Fokus akurat. Hal ini sangat penting untuk memilih mode manual di kamera dan lensa, jika berlaku. (Jika kita memiliki SLR dengan Live View, kita juga bisa fokus dengan loup pembesar pada titik yang diinginkan.) Dalam sebagian besar gambar saya, saya biasanya fokus hingga tak terbatas sementara saya menggunakan lensa wide angle. Dalam kasus lain, bagaimanapun, memiliki unsur-unsur yang menarik dalam jangka pertama atau menengah, kita harus memastikan bahwa ini adalah di mana fokus akan. Mengetahui hyperfocal lensa kami selalu penting, karena banyak tembakan kami adalah lansekap dan dalam hal ini kita ingin kedalaman terpanjang lapangan. 8 .- Hindari "flicker". Tidak, I `m tidak berbicara tentang situs fotografi populer. Dengan "flicker" dikenal sebagai efek yang tidak diinginkan yang terjadi dalam "time-lapse" karena sedikit perbedaan dalam paparan antara tembakan. Perbedaan ini adalah bahwa diafragma lensa autofocus tetap terbuka penuh sampai rana menutup itu, tidak selalu dengan ukuran yang sama. Luar biasa, ada variasi kecil antara membutuhkan. Kami memiliki dua solusi untuk menghindari masalah ini. Pertama, menggunakan lensa manual, solusi favorit saya, untuk memastikan bahwa diafragma selalu terus tetap di posisi yang sama. Yang kedua dan lebih mudah diakses adalah sebagian memutuskan lensa dari kamera untuk memotong komunikasi antara mereka, memilih aperture yang diinginkan diri menggunakan kedalaman tombol bidang. 9 .- Pilih selang yang tepat. Ini mungkin yang paling penting ketika berhadapan dengan "time-lapse". Interval antara tembakan inilah yang akan menentukan kecepatan video terakhir kami. Semakin lama interval, semakin cepat akan menjadi gerakan elemen tembakan kami, dan sebaliknya. Tapi kita harus menyesuaikan interval dengan gerakan nyata pemandangan kita. Bingung? Berikut adalah beberapa saran dari penyimpangan tergantung di tempat kejadian. Awan bergerak sangat lambat, selang waktu 10 detik. Awan bergerak normal. interval 5 detik Awan bergerak sangat cepat. selang waktu 3 detik Orang-orang berjalan di jalan: selang 2 detik. Jalur matahari pada hari yang cerah, nterval dari 30 detik. Malam lanskap, bintang, bulan, dll .: nterval dari 20 sampai 30 detik. 10.- Mengetahui berapa lama Anda "time-lapse" membutuhkan. Ini adalah variabel utama kedua yang kita harus menghitung. Dalam banyak kasus yang kita tahu, seperti dalam pertandingan sepak bola atau matahari terbenam. Kami akan mengatur interval dan durasi klip yang memberi kita jumlah yang memadai frame. Sebaliknya, jika kita memotret adegan tanpa awal atau akhir, seperti mengalir dari sungai, eksposur dan selang akan menentukan panjang tembakan. Beberapa matematika cepat: Mengetahui bahwa kita perlu 25 frame untuk membuat satu detik video (dalam sistem PAL Eropa, di Amerika Serikat itu akan menjadi 30) panjang standar 10 detik dari rekaman akan membutuhkan 250 frame. Oleh karena itu, kita hanya perlu mengalikan 250 dengan selang kami untuk mengetahui berapa banyak waktu yang kita butuhkan untuk berinvestasi dalam melakukan "time-lapse". Itu bisa terjadi bahwa Anda tidak tahu durasi acara atau Anda ingin menangkap adegan panjang , seperti pembentukan badai. Dalam kasus ini, interval adalah premi: memilih yang tepat untuk adegan dan pilih "infinity" atau "nol" dalam jumlah frame remote Anda. Sekarang Anda hanya harus bersabar.
Posted at 14: 17 jam di Tutorial oleh E. Pacheco 129 Komentar Share
Selama tiga tahun terakhir, saya telah diteliti secara menyeluruh dan mempraktekkan teknik time-lapse fotografi. Pengetahuan yang diperoleh telah memungkinkan saya untuk membuat gambar besar yang dinyatakan tidak mungkin. Banyak orang yang menonton video saya bertanya-tanya apakah mereka juga akan mampu membuat gambar tersebut, dan jawabannya adalah ya. Berkat teknologi modern dan harga terjangkau, hampir semua orang memiliki akses ke SLR digital, dan tidak mengambil lebih dari itu untuk mengambil berkualitas tinggi waktu-penyimpangan.
Apakah Anda baru untuk teknik time-lapse atau pengalaman, tips ini akan sangat membantu ketika merencanakan dan melaksanakan penyimpangan waktu Anda.
Saya berharap bahwa Anda menikmati mereka dan menempatkan mereka untuk berlatih. 1 .- Rencana, rencana, rencana ... Sebagai pepatah Cina mengatakan, jika saya punya sepuluh jam untuk memotong bawah pohon, saya akan menggunakan tujuh mengasah kapak. Jika kita akan membuat "time-lapse" dari matahari terbenam, tidak masuk akal untuk melakukan 30 mil dengan mobil sarat dengan perlengkapan kami untuk sampai ke tempat yang dipilih hanya dua menit sebelum matahari terbenam. Oleh karena itu sangat penting untuk memeriksa kedua matahari terbit dan terbenam, dan orientasi mereka dalam kaitannya dengan subjek dan unsur-unsur lain yang mungkin, bulan, pasang surut, dll, yang mungkin ikut bermain. Sebuah alat yang hebat untuk tugas ini adalah "Ephemeris The Fotografer ". Kita harus mengenal interface-nya, mengamati matahari dan bulan dan lintasan mereka, perencanaan ke depan lokasi kami ... dan hanya kemudian mulai mempersiapkan gigi. 2 .- Do not lupa apa-apa. Ketika Anda pergi menembak selang waktu, Anda dapat menghabiskan beberapa jam berdiri di atas batu di tengah-tengah dari mana, sehingga Anda harus siap. Aku wouldn't ingin terdengar seperti ibumu, tetapi perlu mengingatkan Anda bahwa Anda harus mengambil dengan Anda cukup air dan makanan. Jika itu musim dingin, kaus kaki cadangan, mantel hangat, sarung tangan ... Dan jika musim panas, lebih banyak air, topi dan tabir surya. Sebuah ponsel terisi penuh dan sesuatu untuk dibaca adalah suatu keharusan. Oh dan jangan lupa kamera dan tripod. 3 .- Tripod, sahabat terbaik kita. Berhenti bermimpi tentang mahal tripod karbon ringan. Apa yang kita perlukan adalah bahwa tripod berat lama yang tak seorang pun ingin membawa. Perlu diingat bahwa kamera Anda akan tetap berada di posisi yang sama mungkin untuk satu atau dua jam. Goyang sedikit atau bergulir yang disebabkan oleh angin selama tembakan, akan berakhir di take terguncang. Jika tripod Anda tidak cukup kokoh, Anda dapat menggantung tas kamera Anda di atasnya, atau menggunakan batu untuk memberikan stabilitas dan kekakuan yang lebih besar. Hal ini penting dalam eksposur panjang. 4.-Framing adalah kunci. Sebagian besar waktu kami tiba ke lokasi sangat bersemangat, dengan begitu banyak energi yang kita tidak mampu memvisualisasikan adegan, mencoba untuk menemukan framing yang tepat. Biarkan ransel dan tripod dan berjalan-jalan di sekitar daerah itu, bayangkan tembakan, kita lihat di tempat kejadian, mencoba untuk menemukan lokasi terbaik dan komposisi. Kita harus bertindak seolah-olah kita akan mengambil satu tembakan, seolah-olah kita telah membawa gulungan tunggal film di mana, sayangnya, kami hanya memiliki satu penjelasan. The "time-lapse" teknik dasarnya fotografi, dan kita harus berpikir seperti itu. Jika kita hanya memikirkan bagaimana video akhir akan terlihat, kita akan melewatkan rincian yang membuat perbedaan antara tembakan yang baik dan gambar epik. pengaturan kamera 5 .- Dasar. Beberapa orang akan memberitahu Anda bahwa auto modus / prioritas dan file Jpg adalah pengaturan terbaik untuk membuat "time-lapse". Sama seperti tidak ada yang menggunakan pengaturan tersebut saat mengambil beberapa foto berkualitas, untuk mencapai hasil yang profesional dalam selang waktu kita akan menggunakan eksposur manual dan file RAW. Kedua mode manual dan file RAW akan memberi kita kontrol yang lebih besar kamera kami dan selama pascaproduksi tersebut. Kita harus ingat bahwa kamera syuting untuk waktu yang lama, jadi jika kita menggunakan otomatisme saja, kamera akan mencoba untuk memperbaiki setiap perubahan cahaya dan suhu warna. Jadi jika Anda menembak di JPEG, tidak akan ada jalan kembali. 6 .- Live View. Jika SLR Anda memiliki baterai yang baik yang berlangsung lama, saya akan merekomendasikan Anda untuk menggunakan Live View. Dengan menggunakan fitur ini, cermin akan selalu tetap up dan tidak memukul saat kebakaran rana, sehingga menghindari kemungkinan guncangan kamera. Juga, Live View memungkinkan kita untuk memvisualisasikan ditembak kami secara real time. Jika anda juga mengaktifkan histogram, Anda juga akan memiliki eksposur di bawah kontrol. 7 .- Fokus akurat. Hal ini sangat penting untuk memilih mode manual di kamera dan lensa, jika berlaku. (Jika kita memiliki SLR dengan Live View, kita juga bisa fokus dengan loup pembesar pada titik yang diinginkan.) Dalam sebagian besar gambar saya, saya biasanya fokus hingga tak terbatas sementara saya menggunakan lensa wide angle. Dalam kasus lain, bagaimanapun, memiliki unsur-unsur yang menarik dalam jangka pertama atau menengah, kita harus memastikan bahwa ini adalah di mana fokus akan. Mengetahui hyperfocal lensa kami selalu penting, karena banyak tembakan kami adalah lansekap dan dalam hal ini kita ingin kedalaman terpanjang lapangan. 8 .- Hindari "flicker". Tidak, I `m tidak berbicara tentang situs fotografi populer. Dengan "flicker" dikenal sebagai efek yang tidak diinginkan yang terjadi dalam "time-lapse" karena sedikit perbedaan dalam paparan antara tembakan. Perbedaan ini adalah bahwa diafragma lensa autofocus tetap terbuka penuh sampai rana menutup itu, tidak selalu dengan ukuran yang sama. Luar biasa, ada variasi kecil antara membutuhkan. Kami memiliki dua solusi untuk menghindari masalah ini. Pertama, menggunakan lensa manual, solusi favorit saya, untuk memastikan bahwa diafragma selalu terus tetap di posisi yang sama. Yang kedua dan lebih mudah diakses adalah sebagian memutuskan lensa dari kamera untuk memotong komunikasi antara mereka, memilih aperture yang diinginkan diri menggunakan kedalaman tombol bidang. 9 .- Pilih selang yang tepat. Ini mungkin yang paling penting ketika berhadapan dengan "time-lapse". Interval antara tembakan inilah yang akan menentukan kecepatan video terakhir kami. Semakin lama interval, semakin cepat akan menjadi gerakan elemen tembakan kami, dan sebaliknya. Tapi kita harus menyesuaikan interval dengan gerakan nyata pemandangan kita. Bingung? Berikut adalah beberapa saran dari penyimpangan tergantung di tempat kejadian. Awan bergerak sangat lambat, selang waktu 10 detik. Awan bergerak normal. interval 5 detik Awan bergerak sangat cepat. selang waktu 3 detik Orang-orang berjalan di jalan: selang 2 detik. Jalur matahari pada hari yang cerah, nterval dari 30 detik. Malam lanskap, bintang, bulan, dll .: nterval dari 20 sampai 30 detik. 10.- Mengetahui berapa lama Anda "time-lapse" membutuhkan. Ini adalah variabel utama kedua yang kita harus menghitung. Dalam banyak kasus yang kita tahu, seperti dalam pertandingan sepak bola atau matahari terbenam. Kami akan mengatur interval dan durasi klip yang memberi kita jumlah yang memadai frame. Sebaliknya, jika kita memotret adegan tanpa awal atau akhir, seperti mengalir dari sungai, eksposur dan selang akan menentukan panjang tembakan. Beberapa matematika cepat: Mengetahui bahwa kita perlu 25 frame untuk membuat satu detik video (dalam sistem PAL Eropa, di Amerika Serikat itu akan menjadi 30) panjang standar 10 detik dari rekaman akan membutuhkan 250 frame. Oleh karena itu, kita hanya perlu mengalikan 250 dengan selang kami untuk mengetahui berapa banyak waktu yang kita butuhkan untuk berinvestasi dalam melakukan "time-lapse". Itu bisa terjadi bahwa Anda tidak tahu durasi acara atau Anda ingin menangkap adegan panjang , seperti pembentukan badai. Dalam kasus ini, interval adalah premi: memilih yang tepat untuk adegan dan pilih "infinity" atau "nol" dalam jumlah frame remote Anda. Sekarang Anda hanya harus bersabar.
Sedang diterjemahkan, harap tunggu..
Bahasa lainnya
Dukungan alat penerjemahan: Afrikans, Albania, Amhara, Arab, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bahasa Indonesia, Basque, Belanda, Belarussia, Bengali, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Burma, Cebuano, Ceko, Chichewa, China, Cina Tradisional, Denmark, Deteksi bahasa, Esperanto, Estonia, Farsi, Finlandia, Frisia, Gaelig, Gaelik Skotlandia, Galisia, Georgia, Gujarati, Hausa, Hawaii, Hindi, Hmong, Ibrani, Igbo, Inggris, Islan, Italia, Jawa, Jepang, Jerman, Kannada, Katala, Kazak, Khmer, Kinyarwanda, Kirghiz, Klingon, Korea, Korsika, Kreol Haiti, Kroat, Kurdi, Laos, Latin, Latvia, Lituania, Luksemburg, Magyar, Makedonia, Malagasi, Malayalam, Malta, Maori, Marathi, Melayu, Mongol, Nepal, Norsk, Odia (Oriya), Pashto, Polandia, Portugis, Prancis, Punjabi, Rumania, Rusia, Samoa, Serb, Sesotho, Shona, Sindhi, Sinhala, Slovakia, Slovenia, Somali, Spanyol, Sunda, Swahili, Swensk, Tagalog, Tajik, Tamil, Tatar, Telugu, Thai, Turki, Turkmen, Ukraina, Urdu, Uyghur, Uzbek, Vietnam, Wales, Xhosa, Yiddi, Yoruba, Yunani, Zulu, Bahasa terjemahan.
- saya seorang siswa
- 「なにを考えているのかな？」「あなたが強いのでどう攻めたものかと」「ふっ、さっき
- saya masih sekolah
- Adik ku
- Fim de. Domingo chuva frio cama nada mel
- 問題は一旦棚に上げ、ギルドへ向かう。スカルフェイスが出るという噂は本当だったが、
- apakah aku manis
- 自分で言っておきながら違うだろうけどとシンは思う。【分析(アナライズ)】ではたし
- Doce é
- O Allah, Make the day I stand before you
- Boa foto
- my spirit
- しゃがんでミリーの口元に耳を近づけるシン。ミリーはシンの耳元で囁くように言葉を発
- apakah kamu tertarik dengan saya
- my spirit
- kenapa kamu ketawa
- Last day at seoul
- apakah kamu pengen jadi pacar saya
- my spirit
- Posso ver uma foto sua
- 明けて翌日。 シンは穴熊亭を出ると露店ひしめく大通りを抜け、南門をくぐった。門を
- Porque pergunta
- lihat album saya
- according
