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FoodThe Ice Cream Sandwich Comes of

Food
The Ice Cream Sandwich Comes of Age

APRIL 9, 2015
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Ice Cream Sandwiches
Ice Cream Sandwiches

CreditAn Rong Xu for The New York Times

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Hungry City

By LIGAYA MISHAN
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The American ice cream sandwich was born in the Bowery district of Manhattan in the early 1900s, when a pushcart vendor slapped together skinny wafers and vanilla ice cream and handed them for a penny each to shoeshiners and stockbrokers alike.

Only the latter are likely to have access to the version now served on the Bowery at the high-minded restaurant Pearl & Ash. Here the sandwich ($6) arrives wrapped in paper with a happy face scrawled on it, belying the adult flavors within: ice cream suffused with Campari, vermouth and juniper (to conjure gin). It is a Negroni, transmuted, and tastes frankly medicinal, unmitigated by the trace of orange (the cocktail’s garnish) in thin bookends of vanilla cake.
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The calculus of the first ice cream sandwich was simple: mostly cold and creamy, with a little crunch on either end. But unlike the cone, which functions primarily as a serving vessel, those crunchy ends (originally wafers, later upgraded to cookies and cake) are integral to the whole. They should make the ice cream better than if it stood alone. Not every combination works. Cookies and ice cream that are perfectly delightful on their own can be, once married, a bore.
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A brown sugar molasses ice cream sandwich with layers of exceptionally dark, chewy brownie at Luca & Bosco. Credit An Rong Xu for The New York Times
Hungry City
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How far has the ice cream sandwich come in a century? To find out, I visited a dozen ice cream shops and restaurants that have opened in New York in the last few years. (Note that the season is not quite upon us, and some purveyors are still in hibernation.)

Pearl & Ash’s take may be the most radical in the city, at least in terms of flavor; its appearance, as a dainty, tripartite oblong, is classic. Elsewhere, the usual sweet enclosing layers have been supplanted by bread, an idea imported from abroad and arguably more true to the name sandwich. At A. B. Biagi, a gelato shop with an Old World aura a block west of the Bowery, a brioche as big as a bagel is slit and given a serious schmear of gelato, then half-smashed in a sandwich press ($8). It emerges with a toasted frill; inside, the gelato is soft but still deeply cold, and the change in temperature as you eat is half the pleasure. In Sicily this could be breakfast.

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Triangles of waffle, fresh from the iron, make up the fluffy outer strata of the sandwich at Mikey Likes It Ice Cream. Credit An Rong Xu for The New York Times

Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream, a bright parlor a half-block east of the Bowery, makes an open-face sandwich ($12), the base a slice of Japanese shokupan, a pliant white Pullman loaf that evokes Wonder Bread, but with more resilience. It’s saturated with honey and blitzed with a hand torch until gooey at the center and crackly on top, then loaded with two scoops of raw-milk ice cream, astonishingly pure in flavor, and drizzled with more honey. One more torching and the ice cream starts to collapse. The sweet meld exerts an almost gravitational pull: it’s sort of too much, but it keeps dragging you back.

The Thai incarnation of the ice cream sandwich, khanom pang ai tiim, is imposing as served at the restaurant Pok Pok Ny, on the Columbia Street Waterfront in Brooklyn. Four mounds of coconut-jackfruit ice cream line a sweet bun from a Chinese bakery, split at the top to mimic a lobster roll, with a dab underneath of sticky rice cooked down with sugar and pandan-scented coconut cream ($7). The bread is sturdy enough to withstand the slow melt without disintegrating, and shattered peanuts, chocolate syrup and sweetened condensed milk make gratifyingly sloppy trimmings. Alas, the sandwich is too big to pick up and eat; as at Morgenstern’s, utensils are required.
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Two ice cream sandwiches come to an order ($5.50) at House of Inasal, a Filipino restaurant in Woodside, Queens. They suggest overgrown sliders in school-spirit colors: regal ube (purple yam) ice cream on golden rolls of baliwag, rich with eggs and milk. Each is adorned with a spackle of ube halaya, mashed purple yam thickened with coconut milk, sweetened condensed milk and a touch of butter; curls of young coconut; and scattered pops of pinipig, unripened glutinous rice that has been pounded and toasted to a state near Rice Krispies. The result is a fine reciprocity of crunch and give, and flavors that incline more toward buttery than sweet.
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Recent Comments
Dwight Miles
28 days ago

Your article on ice cream sandwiches is rather fey, wouldn't you say? What did you put in your mouth as a child, one of these Bowery...
DMS
29 days ago

Abominations all. Except the last two.
Marc
29 days ago

An "Ice Cream Sandwich" is vanilla ice cream between chocolate cakes of moderate thickness. Just because one calls some arbitrary...

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Triangles of waffle, fresh from the iron, make up the fluffy outer strata of the sandwich ($6 to $7, depending on the kind of waffle) at Mikey Likes It Ice Cream, a minuscule shop in the East Village dominated by a wall of surrealist clocks with gold hands sweeping over celebrity faces (Flava Flav, George Michael). On a recent evening, the waffles were best paired with their time-honored companion, maple syrup, in the form of maple ice cream embedded with walnuts and hunks of maple-walnut pie. (This flavor has gone temporarily off the menu, but it’s worth exploring other options, as well as the occasionally available red velvet waffle.)
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Follow NYT Food's board Sandwiches on Pinterest.

More traditionally structured sandwiches ($6) are found at Ice & Vice, which currently operates as a pop-up stand but plans to open a shop on the Lower East Side this summer. Its offerings are open bids for nostalgia, like toasted milk ice cream packed between brownies mosaic-ed in broken Oreos, grinningly sweet. Tipsy Scoop, a catering company and online shop that delivers by messenger ($60 plus delivery fee for the minimum order of a dozen), puts chocolate-chip cookies around alcohol-infused ice cream: coffee mellowed by Frangelico and Patrón tequila-coffee liqueur, and cake vodka perfumed with amaretto and white chocolate liqueur. It’s a drink I’d be embarrassed to order, but as an unabashed dessert, it’s delicious. (The cookies are functional, nothing more.)

One night at OddFellows Ice Cream Co., a shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, whose roster of flavors includes novelties like edamame and foie gras, the ice cream sandwich ($7) seemed surprisingly conservative: two perforated chocolate wafers around vanilla ice cream. But texture was everything, with a crush of hazelnuts on the outer rim and, lurking in the vanilla, an oozing stripe of caramel.

Some makers of ice cream sandwiches show no interest in innovation, seeking only perfection. My favorite sandwich was the simplest, handed to me (for $4.99) from a stall run by Luca & Bosco in the Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side. The ice cream was brown sugar molasses, with a lovely, almost subliminal bitterness holding the sweetness in check, between blocks of exceptionally dark, chewy brownie. I ate it on a bitter late-winter night, as the wind off the sidewalk found my coat’s every weakness and my fingers went half-numb. By then I’d tasted so many ice cream sandwiches, I feared I’d never look on one again with affection, and still I ate every bite.
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MakananIce Cream Sandwich datang usia9 APRIL 2015Lanjutkan membaca cerita utama Slide ShowFoto-foto Show|10 slideIce Cream SandwichIce Cream SandwichRong Xu CreditAn untuk New York TimesIklanLanjutkan membaca cerita utamaKota laparOleh LIGAYA MISHANLanjutkan membaca cerita utama berbagi Halaman ini Email Berbagi Menciak PIN Simpan lebihSandwich es krim dilahirkan di distrik Bowery Manhattan di awal 1900-an, ketika vendor gerobak sederhana yang terletak menampar bersama wafer kurus dan vanilla ice krim dan menyerahkan mereka untuk penny kepada shoeshiners dan pialang saham yang sama.Hanya yang terakhir cenderung memiliki akses ke versi sekarang disajikan di Bowery di berpikiran tinggi restaurant Pearl & abu. Di sini sandwich ($6) tiba dibungkus kertas dengan suatu wajah bahagia yang tertulis di atasnya, memiliki belying rasa dewasa dalam: es krim diliputi dengan Campari, vermouth dan juniper (untuk menyulap gin). Hal ini Negroni, ditransmutasikan, dan selera terus terang obat, sejati oleh jejak oranye (koktail hiasan) di bookends tipis kue vanili.Lanjutkan membaca cerita utamaResep dari memasak Sungai Headley's Ice Cream Sandwich Oleh jeff gordinier Cognac es krim sandwich Oleh amanda hesser Selai kacang dan sandwich es krim cokelat Oleh melissa clarkMen-download aplikasi iPad baru memasakKunjungi app store untuk men-download new york times ipad memasak appLihat lebih resepKalkulus sandwich es krim pertama adalah sederhana: kebanyakan dingin dan krim, dengan krisis kecil pada kedua ujung. Tapi tidak seperti kerucut, yang berfungsi terutama sebagai kapal melayani, mereka berakhir renyah (awalnya wafer, kemudian upgrade ke cookie dan kue) bagian integral seluruh. Mereka harus membuat es krim yang lebih baik daripada jika ia berdiri sendirian. Tidak setiap kombinasi bekerja. Kue dan es krim yang sempurna menyenangkan mereka sendiri dapat, sekali menikah, membosankan.FotoGula molase ice cream sandwich dengan lapisan sangat gelap, kenyal brownies di Luca & Bosco. Kredit Rong Xu untuk New York TimesKota laparLigaya Mishan Ulasan Restoran unsung besar di New York. Harta yang terpendam di Wi lalu Di HanYang BunSik, ngemil didorong APR 30 Kenangan berlalu APR 23 Chinatowns Di Casa Del koki di Woodside, Queens, tujuan yang mulia APR 16 SpaHa jiwa di Spanyol Harlem, persahabatan di piring APR 2Lihat lebih lanjut»Seberapa jauh sandwich es krim datang pada abad? Untuk mengetahui, saya mengunjungi selusin es krim toko dan restoran yang telah dibuka di New York dalam beberapa tahun terakhir. (Perhatikan bahwa musim adalah tidak cukup kepada kami, dan pemasok beberapa masih dalam hibernasi.)Pearl & Ash mengambil mungkin paling radikal dalam kota, setidaknya dalam hal citarasa; penampilan, sebagai mungil, tripartit lonjong, klasik. Di tempat lain, lapisan melingkupi manis biasa telah digantikan oleh roti, sebuah ide yang diimpor dari luar negeri dan boleh dibilang lebih sesuai nama sandwich. Di A. B. Biagi, kedai es krim dengan dunia lama aura blok Barat Bowery, brioche sebagai besar sebagai sebuah bagel celah dan diberikan schmear serius dari gelato, kemudian setengah-hancur dalam sandwich tekan ($8). Itu muncul dengan embel-embel panggang; di dalam, gelato lembut tapi masih sangat dingin, dan perubahan suhu yang Anda makan adalah setengah kesenangan. Ini bisa sarapan di Sisilia.IklanLanjutkan membaca cerita utamaFotoSegitiga omongan, segar dari besi, membuat strata luar yang halus sandwich di Mikey suka itu es krim. Kredit Rong Xu untuk New York TimesMorgenstern's terbaik es krim, ruang tamu terang setengah blok Timur Bowery, membuat sandwich membuka-wajah ($12), dasar sepotong shokupan Jepang, nyaris seteguh Pullman roti putih yang membangkitkan roti bertanya-tanya, tetapi dengan ketahanan yang lebih. Jenuh dengan madu dan blitzed dengan obor tangan sampai lengket di pusat dan terputus di atas, kemudian dimuat dengan dua sendok susu mentah es krim, mengejutkan murni dalam rasa, dan drizzled dengan madu lebih. Satu lebih membakar dan es krim mulai runtuh. Menyatukan manis diberikannya tarik hampir gravitasi: ini semacam terlalu banyak, tapi itu terus menyeret Anda kembali.Inkarnasi Thai ice cream sandwich, khanom pang ai tiim, mengesankan seperti yang disajikan di restoran Pok Pok Ny, di tepi jalan Columbia di Brooklyn. Empat gundukan keturunan es krim kelapa-nangka roti manis dari toko roti Cina, membagi di bagian atas untuk meniru lobster roll, dengan setetes di bawah ketan dimasak turun dengan gula dan beraroma pandan krim kelapa ($7). Roti ini cukup kokoh untuk menahan meleleh lambat tanpa hancur, dan kacang tanah hancur, sirup cokelat dan susu kental manis membuat hiasan ceroboh gratifyingly menggambarkan. Sayangnya, sandwich terlalu besar untuk mengambil dan makan; seperti pada Morgenstern, peralatan diperlukan.Lanjutkan membaca cerita utamamemasakDapatkan update reguler dari The New York Times memasak, dengan saran resep, memasak tips dan saran perbelanjaan. Dan download memasak untuk iPhone dan iPad di App Store.IklanLanjutkan membaca cerita utamaIklanLanjutkan membaca cerita utamaDua sandwich es krim datang ke sebuah perintah ($5.50) di rumah Inasal, sebuah restoran Filipina di Woodside, Queens. Mereka menyarankan ditumbuhi slider di sekolah-Roh warna: regal ube (ungu yam) es krim di golden gulungan baliwag, kaya dengan telur dan susu. Masing-masing dihiasi spackle ube halaya, dihaluskan yam ungu menebal dengan santan, susu kental manis, dan sentuhan mentega; ikal kelapa muda; dan tersebar muncul dari pinipig, masih belum terlalu matang beras ketan yang telah ditumbuk dan panggang ke keadaan dekat Rice Krispies. Hasilnya adalah timbal-balik halus crunch dan memberikan, dan rasa yang condong lebih ke arah mentega daripada manis.Lanjutkan membaca cerita utamaKomentar terbaruDwight Miles28 hari yang laluArtikel Anda di ice cream sandwich agak fey, tidak akan Anda katakan? Apa yang menurut Anda masukkan di mulut Anda sebagai seorang anak, salah satu Bowery ini...DMS22 hari yang laluKekejian semua. Kecuali dua.Marc22 hari yang lalu"Ice Cream Sandwich" adalah vanilla ice krim antara kue cokelat sedang ketebalan. Hanya karena seseorang memanggil beberapa sewenang-wenang... Lihat semua komentar Menulis komentarTriangles of waffle, fresh from the iron, make up the fluffy outer strata of the sandwich ($6 to $7, depending on the kind of waffle) at Mikey Likes It Ice Cream, a minuscule shop in the East Village dominated by a wall of surrealist clocks with gold hands sweeping over celebrity faces (Flava Flav, George Michael). On a recent evening, the waffles were best paired with their time-honored companion, maple syrup, in the form of maple ice cream embedded with walnuts and hunks of maple-walnut pie. (This flavor has gone temporarily off the menu, but it’s worth exploring other options, as well as the occasionally available red velvet waffle.)Continue reading the main storyFollow NYT Food's board Sandwiches on Pinterest.More traditionally structured sandwiches ($6) are found at Ice & Vice, which currently operates as a pop-up stand but plans to open a shop on the Lower East Side this summer. Its offerings are open bids for nostalgia, like toasted milk ice cream packed between brownies mosaic-ed in broken Oreos, grinningly sweet. Tipsy Scoop, a catering company and online shop that delivers by messenger ($60 plus delivery fee for the minimum order of a dozen), puts chocolate-chip cookies around alcohol-infused ice cream: coffee mellowed by Frangelico and Patrón tequila-coffee liqueur, and cake vodka perfumed with amaretto and white chocolate liqueur. It’s a drink I’d be embarrassed to order, but as an unabashed dessert, it’s delicious. (The cookies are functional, nothing more.)One night at OddFellows Ice Cream Co., a shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, whose roster of flavors includes novelties like edamame and foie gras, the ice cream sandwich ($7) seemed surprisingly conservative: two perforated chocolate wafers around vanilla ice cream. But texture was everything, with a crush of hazelnuts on the outer rim and, lurking in the vanilla, an oozing stripe of caramel.Some makers of ice cream sandwiches show no interest in innovation, seeking only perfection. My favorite sandwich was the simplest, handed to me (for $4.99) from a stall run by Luca & Bosco in the Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side. The ice cream was brown sugar molasses, with a lovely, almost subliminal bitterness holding the sweetness in check, between blocks of exceptionally dark, chewy brownie. I ate it on a bitter late-winter night, as the wind off the sidewalk found my coat’s every weakness and my fingers went half-numb. By then I’d tasted so many ice cream sandwiches, I feared I’d never look on one again with affection, and still I ate every bite.
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